The Ordering Process

Purchasing a bespoke garment is the height of luxury. The garment is not only designed to your preferences in terms of colour, fabrication and style, it is built upon a pattern which is drafted with precision and care from a full set of your measurements. The very “blueprint” of the garment is designed around your body’s unique shaping and requirements.

• “Bespoke: an item that is made to order to custom specifications without use of an existing pattern.”
  
  
  

For special occasions, comfort during performance, or regular use such as tight-lacing, a fully bespoke corset is a joy. Sparklewren does, however, also produce standard sized and customised garments which function exceptionally well. Consider your requirements carefully when commissioning a corset.









1. Design Possibilities
Bespoke orders can be very complicated since imagination is the only limitation. The client may need a shimmering golden bridal corset and train for a summer wedding, a tight-lacing underbust for daily wear, or a swarovski encrusted cuirasse corset for sparkling across a stage… Sparklewren can produce both classic pieces and highly elaborate ensembles, and is happy to discuss the client’s design ideas at any time.



Corsets can also be made to standard sizes at a reduced cost (this is currently only applicable to underbust corsets or those made from historical patterns). As a guideline, cinchers/belts start at £150, underbust corsets at £210, and overbust corsets at £390 (fully bespoke). Fully bespoke ensembles, such as a bridal overbust corset, skirt and train, start at £1500, whilst sample pieces are often heavily discounted. Please visit the Gallery for inspiration.




Left: this is an example of a piece produced to a standard size. Part of the “Ruffles and Lace” series, this piece makes the most of a zesty green silk resulting in a bold and eye-catching design.



Clients are welcome to order underbust corsets in standard sizes (order 3” – 4” below the natural waist size) either as variations upon the designs shown here or with custom colour/design choices. Clients with a clear idea of their requirements or who wish to purchase a replica of an existing design are welcome to contact Jenni for a full quote.



Occasionally, standard sized samples are available for immediate sale through the Sparklewren Etsy Shop, but usually they are made to order. The client may select colour, fabric, and design details, but choose to forgo the bespoke pattern, mock-ups and fittings. Corsets such as this cost slightly less than a bespoke fit, and tend to suit individuals with more “standard” measurements.



This particular corset is currently for sale on Etsy at the reduced price of $220 (approximately £135)















2. The Design Consultation
Initial design consultations can be enthusiastic and exciting, so it is important to get down a concrete description of the item to be built.



The consultation is complimentary and can take place either via email correspondance, in person or on the telephone (limited to 1 hour). It will result in a quick sketch and a sheet of specifications, which are signed off along with the contract.



By starting with a feature (in this instance, decorative lacing), it is possible to explore the many nuances of design that can dramatically change a garment’s look and feel.



From left to right: high-hipped cincher with closed front and decorative lacing; long-line high-backed underbust corset with front busk and lacing detail over the front hips; mid-hip underbust corset with closed front with extended lacing detail on the side-front panels.






3. The Contract and Payments
An excellent way to start when ordering any custom clothing is by agreement within a contract. The contract will specify exactly what Sparklewren is going to produce for the client, at what price and when by. It will include details of any payment plans arranged, unusual materials and/or extra garments. As a general rule, a 40% non-refundable deposit is required when the contract is signed, but other payment details are negotiable.



Those client’s that have already arranged an order, may pay their deposit and further amounts here via Paypal.






4. The Measurements
Upon signing the contract, the client will be referred to the measurements chart. It is advisable to have a friend or seamstress assist with taking the measurements to ensure accuracy. It is also recommended that the client supply a cropped photograph of their torso from each angle (ideally in a thin vest-top) to give Jenni an idea of posture and shaping. [Please do not complete this chart until you have arranged an order and paid your deposit.]



Clients ordering a standard sized garment are advised to select a size 3” – 4” smaller than their natural waist. Standard sized corsets feature a built-in 2” lacing gap and are available in even sizes from 16” – 36”. Please contact Jenni if you wish to purchase a standard sized garment to particular design requirements.






5. Construction and Technique
Each Sparklewren garment is carefully designed and considered to ensure best construction possible. Proper corsetry coutil is always used as the strength layer, two-part grommets are always set correctly, and so on.



Most patterns are drafted uniquely for the client, or adapted (as appropriate) from historical styles/patterns. This ensures an excellent fit. Sparklewren’s standard sized underbust corsets, however, also boast a rather curvy silhouette and are suitable for many clients.







Left: a bespoke pattern draft for the “Elegance” corset. Bespoke pattern drafts are also available to those who wish to explore working from a bespoke pattern themselves, and start at £60. These may not be reproduced, constructed or sold by any other corsetieres or seamstresses for commercial purposes.



As with all patterns, it is recommended to produce a toile from low-quality firm fabric to assess fit. A Sparklewren bespoke pattern will provide an excellent starting point, but slight alterations are to be expected.










Right: this recent toile was constructed to show the client the two design options available to her. The right-hand side features cording whilst the left-hand side features decorative diagonal exterior casings. The two colours give a flavour of the final piece, which will be a delicate silk dupioni in “bronzed aqua” combined with custom-dyed satin coutil in chocolate brown for the busk and lacing panels, binding, and exterior casings.



The front lacing is primarily decorative, but is designed to provide a touch of support and modesty with a dramatically plunging neckline. A low hip-line and high back provide comfort and support, whilst the waist features 5” of reduction for a superb hourglass figure.



This toile demonstrates very well the benefits of using a mock-up to assess a pattern and make the necessary alterations for improved fit and shaping. It also shows how crucial it can be to fit the pattern to its intended body (this mannequin gives us only a vague idea of how the toile will work on the client’s body).
















Jenni prefers to stick to straight-stitch and couture hand-finishing tecniques, using enclosed and bound seams so that the unseen part of the corset is as attractive and robust as the exterior. Fashion fabrics are interfaced where appropriate, grain is carefully considered, and steel boning is cut to fit exactly.







Left: Flat-felled seams and exterior coutil casings on a silk underbust corset. This combination of subtly lustrous satin coutil with a two-tone shimmering dupioni silk is a Sparklewren favourite, and has given rise to a body of work called the “Ruffles and Lace” series. Subtle changes to the number and angle of these casings, along with decorative additions such as lace overlays and satin ribbon ruffles, gives this classic and recurring theme a good deal of variety. This particular piece is currently for sale as a ready-to-wear sample here.













Right: The lining of each corset is embroidered with the Sparklewren logo, and can be personalised with names, dates, and emblems as required.



To learn more about the production of Sparklewren corsets, feel free to get involved on the blog.















6. Production Time
Jenni aims to have each garment ready for posting within 4-10 weeks. However, this can depend upon a variety of factors (for example, the complexity of the order, materials in stock, etc.). If this is a concern, please discuss this with Jenni when placing your order, and please do remember that Sparklewren does not keep a large stock of items ready to ship. The time spent on the garment is an integral part of producing a beautiful and well-made piece of clothing that is especially created for each individual client.






7. The Fittings
Clients who commission a fully bespoke corset will have a toile produced which will be used to conduct a “remote fitting”. Local clients (especially those purchasing a full ensemble or bridal gown) will be required to attend fittings in which Jenni will fine-tune the garment. The number of fittings will depend upon the garment in question, so do enquire before placing an order.






8. Confirmation and Shipping/Collection of the Garment
At the final fitting (for local clients) or upon completion of the garment (for non-local clients) the garment must be approved and any remaining monies paid before the garment may be shipped/collected. The client signs for their completed garment affirming that it is as desired and in perfect condition, and then becomes the owner of a beautiful carefully crafted Sparklewren corset.












Any Other Questions?
Please check the Terms & Conditions and FAQs for the answer to your question. Otherwise, feel free to contact Jenni directly to enquire about placing an order. Those client’s that have already arranged an order, may pay their deposit and further amounts here via Paypal.